Soak it up: Permanently ready for its close-up, the Medieval town of Cefalù huddles above the sea, amaze of cobbled streets that knit together honey-hued buildings, elegant churches and a smattering of trattorias, bars and boutiques (Look familiar? Much of Cinema Paradiso was filmed here.)
Walk out of town and you are on the prom above Lungomare beach, an epic arc of sand and fine shingle, dotted with 'lidos' - individual areas with loungers, umbrellas and simple cafes. The beach grows quieter the further you walk, and the lido prices get cheaper - although the shore does become increasingly rocky.
Stretch your legs: Take a stroll along the seafront early in the evening - the promenade is just made for the passeggiata. Familes, courting couples and elderly nonnas clad head to foot in black all stroll along it. Pick up a gelato at L'Angolo delle Dolcezze in he Old Town (Via Novelli 2/4) to keep you cool.
Sunset time: Grab a table on Tivitti's pretty patio fortuna, lobsterpasta and tagliata - tender strips of beef. You'll also find some of the best cannoli (sweet pastry tubes filled with ricotta) in all Sicily (ristorantetivitti.com; mains about £13). Book Brezza di Mare, a cute seafront apartment on the edge of town; a week costs from £1,704, based on four sharing (020 7377 8518, thinksicily.com), excluding flights. Fly to Palermo, 85 minutes from Cefalù, from Gatwick with EasyJet.
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