'It's amazing how often we get guests asking, "Where can we hire a moped to explore the island?". Sicily is bigger than Wales with hundreds of towns, archaeological sites and beaches, which means you need a car. The road network is good, though, so it's easy to get around. Remember - headlights are obligatory on Italy's autostrade, even in bright sunshine. Sightseeing in big cities? Don't drive into the clogged centres of places like Palermo on a Saturday afternoon, when everyone is shopping - the best time is often Sunday. If you're self-catering, when buying fish at the market, tell them you have children to feed - you'll always get the best quality! Oh, and if you fancy a light lunch, Sicilian-style, try a brioche con gelato - ice-cream in a bun.'