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Heaven Scent

Best for baroque charm: Palazzo Hedoné

All the riches of a Mediterranean coastline gather gloriously on the limestone hilltops, ridges and clefts of Sicily's rugged hinterland in spring. Borage casts its gauzy purple veil across the rocks and competes with yellow cape sorrel, wild iris and creamy snapdragons. These grow everywhere, pushing out of the stony rocks of the Baroque churches of Ortigia, Noto and Scicli. Immerse yourself in the culture of this corner of Sicily and imbibe its sleepy rhythms at Palazzo Hedoné, with its garden terraces zigzagging up the soft volcanic rock. There are indoor and outdoor pools, a cinema in a grotto and 13 simple bedrooms that contrast with the antique-filled grandeur of the piano nobile."


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