There to welcome us was our Think Ionian Islands rep Rachel, an engaging Liverpudlian who quickly became our guide, friend and troubleshooter. The villa company looks after around a tenth of the island's 60 villas, which also happen to be its most luxurious. Ours,Christina , was set back from the sea on a hilltop, just a five-minute walk from the beach and with a timeless view across two tiny bays to Skorpios and the towering coastline of Lefkada. It was easy to while away that awkward hour between cocktails and dinner gazing at the yachts criss-crossing the strait and watching the swallows put on their daily display of dive-bombing into the infinity pool.
While the villa has a well-equipped kitchen, we chose to walk the few minutes into Vathi for dinner in one of the dozen tavernas around the harbour, set amid tree palms and vibrantly colourful oleander, geraniums and petunias.