Our home for the weekend is villa Christina and while the island may feel like a step back in time, the villa is thoroughly up-to-date. Perched atop a small hill overlooking the port of Vathi, there are three bedrooms with tiled floors and an open-plan living room with fireplace and modern furnishings. Outside, a large terrace has vistas of the mainland and the waters of the infinity pool seem to meld with those of the sea below. Thanks to our arriving late in the evening Christina, the owner, shows typical Greek hospitality by stocking our fridge and leaving a home-made moussaka, Greek salad topped with creamy feta cheese, fresh bread from the bakery and, most important, a chilled bottle of white wine for dinner. It is both welcome and delicious.