"The Leopard is set on the less touristy, wilder, west side of the island, where we are headed, arriving 90 minutes later up a bumpy track at our villa, Corte del Sole. A single-storey farm building converted into an airy, high-ceilinged, three-bathroom house, it's spacious yet cosy.
A pool sparkles at the end of a lush lawn. It is chlorine free (there are some baby frogs in it at one point; the children want to keep one as a pet) and around it there is an atmospheric hide-and-seek garden full of giant cob-webby cacti and prickly pears. It's quiet and isolated, overlooking vineyards, wild flower meadows and olive groves all the way across a tideless sea to the distant Egadi Islands."